Episode 47

Tirtha Yatra Parva (Pilgrimages and their Prominence)[i]

This is an interesting story in Vana Parva discussing all punyakshetras or pilgrimage points of Bharat known to the seers of ancient India some five thousand years back. When it is difficult for us to locate the places even with Google Maps, it is surprising that our Rishis have recorded more than two hundred and fifty tirthas, the route directions and their importance so vividly. A few intellectuals sometimes question the necessity of visiting punya khetras when God is all around. The current story gives answers to those critical questions.

The story answers a genuine question which majority of us have as to how unrighteous (adharmic) person enjoy luxuries of life while righteous (dharmic) people suffer with difficulties in life.

The story also talks of the dos and don’ts while on pilgrimage and the pilgrimage etiquette to attain the fruits of performing pilgrimages.

The Story

In the last Episode we saw Brihadsva telling the famous story of Nala to console Dharmaraja that he was not the only king who was suffering from adversities. Before leaving, Brihadsva taught Aksha Hridaya (for details of Aksha Hridaya, please refer previous episode) to Yudhishtir.

Pandavas were relieved a lot from the pangs of mental strain, yet they were feeling the absence of Arjuna bitterly. After attaining Pasupatastra, the gods vied with one another to bestow the choicest weapons and arrows to Arjuna and Arjuna stayed in heaven for five long years. Pandavas were not aware of his whereabouts and they were worrying.

Arrival of Narada

Throughout Vana Parva, the common theme underneath all episodes is that whenever the Pandavas were under tension, some great sage used to arrive to reassure confidence in Pandavas. When Pandavas were thinking about Arjuna, Narada reached to bless them. All Pandavas prayed and performed puja to Narada and thereafter Yudhishtira stood before him and requested him to narrate the pilgrim places and the results of pilgrimage.

Narada smiled and told, ‘Hi, Yudhishtir! The question which you are asking now was being asked by Bhishma with sage Pulasthya a few years back. Now I repeat what Pulastya had narrated to Bhishma at that time’.

Pulastya narrating the importance of pilgrimage and pilgrim places 

Pulastya started telling, ‘Tirthas are the very abodes of sages. Not all the people of the planet attain the fruits of tirtha yatras. Those who have control over their senses and mind and those who possess tapas, vidya and fame alone can attain the fruits of tirtha yatras.

अकल्कको निरारम्भो लघ्वाहारो जितेन्द्रियः|

विमुक्त: सर्व पापेभ्य: स तीर्थ फलमश्नुते||[ii]

-        Those who have no stylishness, those who have no pride in each work, those who take little food, and those who have high determination will get relived from sins and attain the fruits of tirtha yatras (pilgrimages).

‘Hey Bhishma! One should perform yagnas, charities and other pious things to attain merit and thereby the heaven. But all these are possible by the kings and the rich people. But the Rishis have revealed a secret for the poor people. They can perform tirtha yatras and attain the same results as do the kings by performing yagnas (तीर्थाभिगमनं पुण्यं यज्ञैरपि विशिष्यते) [iii]. Also, if anyone does not perform fasting for three nights in a tirtha and if no charity is given in these places, he shall not attain Punya (merit).

Pulastya continued, ‘Now I am narrating you the important tirthas of Bharat. Pushkar shines among all the tirthas and it is the king of all tirthas. This is also known as Brahma tirtham since it is here that Lord Brahmaa did penance for thousands of years. The other important tirthas are: Jambu margam, Tandulikasramam, Agastya vatam, Dharmaranyam (Kanvasramam), Yayati Patanam, Maha kalam, Koti tirtham, Bhadra vatam, Narmada tirtham, Dakshina Sindhu tirtham, Charmanvati tirtham, Vasishtasramam, Pingam, Prabhasa tirtham, Vara danam, Saraswati sagar sangamam, Pindarakam, Sagara sindhu sangamam, Sanku Karneswaram, Vasudhara, Vasu saram, Sindhuttama tirtham, Brahma tunga, Sakra kumari, Srikundam, Vimalam, Badaba, Devika, Kama tirtham, Rudra tirtham, Yajanam, Yaajanam, Brahma naalukam, Deergha satram, Vinasanam, Nagodbhavam, Sividbhavam, Chamasodbhedam, Saraswathi, Sasa yanam, Rudrakoti, Naimisam, Kurukshetram, Samanthaka Panchakam, Rama hradam, Vishnu Sthanam, Pariplavam, and Prithvi tirtham.

Apart from the above fifty, the others are Saalookini, Sarpa tirtham, Varaaha tirtham, Aswini tirtham, Somatirtham, Kruthasaucha tirtham, Agni vatam, Munjavatam, Yakshini tirtham, Kurukshetra dwaram, Kaaya sodhanam, Lokoddharam, Sree tirtham, Kapila tirtham, Surya tirtham, Gobhavanam, Sankhini tirtham, Yakshendra tirtham, Matru tirtham, Brahmavartham, Saravanam, Svaavillomaapaham, Maanusha tirtham, Aapagaa nadi, Brahmodumburam, Saptarshi kundam, Kedaaram, Kapila kedaaram, Sarakam, Ilaaspadam, Kindaanam, Kinjapyam, Naarada tirtham (Ambaa janmam), Pundarikam, Vaitarani, Phalaki vanam, Misrakam, Vyasa vanam, Manojavam, Madhuvati, Kausaki Drushavati sangamam, Kimdattam, Ahassudina tirtham, Mruga dhoomam, Vaamanam, Paavanam, Srikunjam, Naimisa kunjam, Brahma tirtham, and Sapta saraswata tirtha.

Bhima was inquisitive to take note of all the tirthas in his memory lane. ‘Are there any other tirthas?’, he asked inquisitively.

Pulastya continued, ‘So far I have told about only hundred tirthas. The others are: Ausanasa tirtha, Kapaala mochanam, Viswamitram, Kaarthikeyam, Pruthoodaka tirtham, Surakanya Saraswati sangamam, Ardhakila tirtham, Satam, Sahasram, Kuru tirtham, Swarga dwaram, Rudra patni, Swasti puram, Ganga madupu, Vasishtaasramam, Eka raatram, Adityasramam, Dadhichi tirtham, Kanyasramam, Sannihita, Dharma tirtham, Jnana pavanam, Saugandhikam, Devasrava, Sugandha, Sata Kumbha, Pancha Yaksha, Trisoola khaata, Saakambhari tirtham, Suvarnaakhya tirtham, Dhoomavati, Rathaavartham, Dhaara, Gangaa dwaram, Sapta Gangaa sangamam, Tri Gangaa sangamam, Sakraavartam, Kanasvalam, Ganga, Bhadrakarneswaram, Arundhati vatam, Sindhu prabham, Yamuna prabhavam, Vedika, Rishikulya, Kruttikaa tirtham, Magha tirtham, Vidyaa tirtham, Vetapika, Indivara tirtham, Disapati tirtham, Baahuda, Gopradaa tirtham, Gomathi, Varanasi, Markandeya tirtham, Gaya, Phalgu tirtham, Ahalya hradam, Udapanam, Rajarshi jana koopam, Kampana, Mahanadi, Deva pushkarani, Maheswara dhara, Salagrama tirtham, Bharataasramam, Kanyasamvedyam, Deva kootam, Kausika hradam, Kumara veerasramam, Agnidhara, Kumara dhara, Gauri sikhara kundam, Nandini koopam, Kalika Kausika sangama tirtham, Urvasi tirtham, Gokarnam, Vrushabha dwipam, Nanda, Aulakam, Karatoyam, Badari tirtham, Dandakaranyam, Sarabhanga asramam, Srungibhera puram, Bhogavati, Vasuki, Munjavata tirtham and Hamsa Vrama.

Narada told the effects of taking bath in all these tirthas to Yudhishtir as told by Pulastya to Bhishma. Narada also told, ‘Hey Dharmaraj, you also go to these places with a mind free from worries and with dedication. You need to control your senses and practice taking very little food. People with perverted minds, cruel minds and bad intentions cannot have bath in these places due to lack of devotion’.

After hearing the names of plethora of tirthas Bhishma got delighted and visited all the places with a zeal. Dharmaraja was also inquisitive to go for a pilgrimage with his brothers and wife.

Arrival of Lomasa Maharshi

After bidding farewell to Narada, Dharmaraja approached the purohit, Dhaumya and informed his intention about visiting the places. Dhamya was very happy and he explained the geographical location of all the tirthas mentioned by Pulastya and Narada. He also explained why those places were famous and why Hindus frequently visit all those tirthas.

While they were talking, Lomasa Maharshi came up from heaven to Dharmaraja place. After being received, Lomasa told, ‘Hey Dharmaraj! You are all worrying about Arjuna. I have seen Arjuna spending time with Lord Indra in heaven. He is blessed with a variety of astras by all gods and he is now invincible. He has also learnt Gandharva veda in heaven. Indra has conveyed to you that you should set out for a pilgrimage to all tirthas upon the earth till Arjuna unites with you all. I have seen all the places twice, yet I also accompany and guide you at each destination’.  

Dharmaraja was already prepared for tirtha yatras. Now the benevolent command of Indra also came. Lomasa asked Dharmaraja to send back the people who could not able to sustain cold and who were weak and could not restrain hunger.

ते सर्वे विनिवर्तन्ताम् ये च मिष्टभुजो द्विजा:|

पक्वान्न लेह्य पानानां मांसानां च विकल्पाकाः|| [iv]

      Let all those who are gluttons, those who desire delicious foods, those who eat meat go back – Yudhishtira told. Many people who were accompanying Pandavas stayed back. Very few Brahmins and sages want to go along with Pandavas since they were assured of protection from wild beasts in the forests.

Preparations for tirtha yatra – blessings by Ved Vyasa and Narada

Dharmaraja finally decided to start the journey with a very few accomplices. Of course, Draupadi followed them. When they were about to start Ved Vyasa and Narada reached the place to bless the caravan. They told,

      ‘Oh, Pandavas! During your itenary, keep your minds tranquil. Yatras are to be performed only when the minds are clean and tranquil – Vana Parva 93.20.

शरीर नियमं प्राहु: ब्राह्मणामानुषं व्रतम्|

मनो विशुद्धां बुद्धिं च दैवमाहुर्व्रतं द्विजा:|| [v]

Elderly people say that if the body is kept clean, it is mānuṣa vrataṃ (done by humans). If mind is kept clean, it is daiva vrataṃ (done by gods).

So far you have cleansed your bodies and ready for mānuṣa vrataṃ. Now cleanse your minds with equanimity of thoughts and perform daiva vrataṃ.

After taking the blessings Pandavas started their journey towards east.

Dharmaraja’s dharmic queries

During the journey, Dharmaraja was enquiring a few doubts and Lomasa was trying to clear the doubts. Yudhishtira had a doubt in his mind lingering for so many years. He asked, ‘Hey Rishi, as far as I know I am a good person and still I am suffering in the hands of destiny. Kauravas are cruel and still they are growing in name, fame and wealth. What is the reason for dharmic people suffering and adharmic people enjoying life?

Lomasa replied, ‘Hey Yudhishtir! If your enemies indulge in unrighteous acts and get progressed, you need not grieve for it. People who reach the top through unrighteous ways suffer ignominious defeats at the end. I have been seeing since Krita Yuga the ascendency of demons (Asuras) for some periods of time. While gods are in tirthas, the asuras had never gone to tirthas. The demonic powers declined over a period of time giving way to sattvic powers.

Lomasa continued-

For those who reach the top threw unrighteous ways, initially pride appears in their mannerisms. Pride leads to anger, and due to anger they don’t have feeling of shame, and when they forget the feeling of shame, they don’t tread the righteous path. When the righteous path is discarded, Lakshmi, goddess of wealth leaves them and Kali enter their bodies. It leads to their downfall.

Darmaraja’s doubt got cleared. They continued their journey and reached Gaya tirtha. Gaya got its name due to the presence of a king by name Gaya. He was famous for he was always performing Yagnas. He was so liberal in charities that there used to be heaps of unutilised food and no one was hungry in his kingdom.

Pandavas heard the story of Gaya tirtha and proceeded towards Agastya Asrama.

Understanding the Story

The story talks about importance of tirtha yatra (pilgrimage to holy places). What is ‘tirtha’?

ज्येष्ठानां चरणं स्पृष्ट्वा नमस्कारः करणीयः. यत्र अध्यासितं महद्भिः तद्धि तीर्थं प्रचक्षते।

-        Which means, where Mahatmas (great people) are there, that is tirtha.

Other meaning is holy place (Punya kshetra). These are frequented by gods and sages. Hindu tradition believes that one should visit these places in lifetime. तरति इति तीर्थ: (tarati iti tīrtha:). It means the very visit will liberate you from the cycle of births and deaths.

We come across some intellectuals criticising tirtha yatras saying that God is everywhere and why should we go for tirtha yatras? The story gives answer to this question by saying that the places attain holiness due to the presence of saints and holy people with extraordinary powers in these places. Again, the emphasis is not on jolly trips, treks, sightseeing and the like. One should go on pilgrimage with certain basic etiquette and bent of mind – mitāhāri (frugal in eating), unwavering mind, kind-hearted, pure vegetarianism and the like. Why not meat eating? Meat eating induces rājasa and tāmasa characteristics as against sātvika bent of mind which is required for tirtha yatra.

Tirtha yatra must be performed with tranquillity of mind and with a moto for refinement of one’s own character.

The second importance of this story is that it discusses more than two hundred and fifty tirthas known to ancient Indians as early as 3100 BC. This is something marvellous and the tradition ordained a Hindu to visit all the places in lifetime. Why is it so? It ensures mingling with different types and regions of people across Bharath. The idea of Bharat spreading from Himalayas to Kanya Kumari was the big unifying factor amidst diversity of languages, food habits and cultures.

The story answers to the often-spoken doubt of many people - What is the reason for dharmic people suffering and adharmic people enjoying life? The story says that the ascendancy of adharmic people is a temporary phase only. Those who reach the top through dubious means develop pride, pride leads to carelessness, carelessness leads to shamelessness and anger, anger leads to quarrelling and ultimately results in the decline and decay of unrighteous people.

Points to ponder

1. What is meant by tirtha yatra? Why is tirtha yatra is considered a sure path to heaven?
2. How can you justify that Hindu tradition has a history of more than five thousand years?
3. What is the reason for dharmic people suffering and adharmic people enjoying life? How do adharmic people decline in life?

Footnotes

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[i] This Story is taken from Vana Parva of Maha Bharata written by sage Vyasa.

[ii] akalkako nirārambho laghvāhāro jitendriyaḥ|

vimukta: sarva pāpebhya: sa tīrtha phalamaśnute|| - Vana Parva 82-11

[iii] tīrthābhigamanaṃ puṇyaṃ yajñairapi viśiṣyate -Vana Parva 82.17

[iv] te sarve vinivartantām ye ca miṣṭabhujo dvijā:|

pakvānna lehya pānānāṃ māṃsānāṃ ca vikalpākāḥ||   – Vana Parva 92.20

[v] śarīra niyamaṃ prāhu: brāhmaṇāmānuṣaṃ vratam|

mano viśuddhāṃ buddhiṃ ca daivamāhurvrataṃ dvijā:|| - Vana Parva 93.21

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